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Coral and anemone problems

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Coral and anemone problems - Page 2 Empty Re: Coral and anemone problems

Post by Grimreefer Wed 20 Jul 2011, 9:32 pm

How is the AoG frag doin Siber?

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Post by Puffdaddy Tue 26 Jul 2011, 9:28 pm

I have some red algae growing on some spots in aquarium just a few spots. Is this a bad sign??

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Post by ritter678 Tue 26 Jul 2011, 9:52 pm

Puffdaddy wrote: I have some red algae growing on some spots in aquarium just a few spots. Is this a bad sign??
Is it leafy or slimey?
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Post by Puffdaddy Tue 26 Jul 2011, 9:55 pm

Slimey it's on the top of a dead coral

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Post by matt_longview Tue 26 Jul 2011, 10:03 pm

Cyano Algae most likely. Google it and let us know if that's it.

Very common for a young tank. After the cyano passes, you'll likely get green hair algae. From what I've read it's almost unavoidable.
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Post by Puffdaddy Tue 26 Jul 2011, 10:07 pm

[img]Coral and anemone problems - Page 2 30f54e2a[/img]

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Post by Puffdaddy Tue 26 Jul 2011, 10:30 pm

I think it is cyano. Seems right

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Post by DonnieP Tue 26 Jul 2011, 10:46 pm

Definately Cyano, its not an algae but rather a bacteria. The Cyano usually comes from to high phosphates, silicates and nutients and not enough current and is most likely coming from bad water, for instance useing tap water and water conditioners instead of ro-di water. If it is mostly on that dead coral skeleton I would take it out, sometime Cyano will feed on the trace remains of that coral or even a dirty skeleton from elsewhere, anywhere it can get its fertilizer so to speak. Cyano bacteria is not just a new tank syndrome like diatoms, Cyano comes from a condition that needs to be corrected and if left unchecked it can and most likely will take over your whole tank until it has nothing else to feed on, namely nutrients. Syphoning it out on water changes is a help, you can also get chemical remedies if you trust putting chemicals in the tank. Cyano grows best in low oxygen areas so if you can beef up the flow in the tank it will help considerably. I do have one question though, are you useing ro-di water you make yourself? from somewhere else? or are you useing tap water? What are your tank parameters like SG, PH, ALK, Calcium,Magnesium and temp, Cyano likes higher temps too.


Last edited by DonnieP on Tue 26 Jul 2011, 11:12 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Puffdaddy Tue 26 Jul 2011, 11:04 pm

Temp is 77 to 78 I think. Started using RO water as of about a month ago. Got an rodi unit. Ordered water testing kit just waiting in it to come in. Will post parameters as soon as I can. Thanks

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Post by Siberman Wed 27 Jul 2011, 7:41 pm

Grimreefer wrote:How is the AoG frag doin Siber?

5 polyps and counting. cheers

Those brownish/greenish ones have a kick. I moved them the other day and my finger was numb for about 30 minutes. affraid Might put the gloves on next time.
Laughing
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Post by Siberman Wed 27 Jul 2011, 7:46 pm

Puffdaddy wrote:I think it is cyano. Seems right

+1.

While you're getting your water right, take an old toothbrush and scrape it into your siphon during water changes. Like Donnie said though , it would probably be better to take the whole thing out of the tank. It most definately can take over the whole aquarium.
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Post by Puffdaddy Sat 30 Jul 2011, 9:44 am

Are phosphates and silicates the same? Besides a aquarium pharmeceauticals reef master testing kit, is there any other test kits I need to purchase for my reef tank?

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Post by matt_longview Sat 30 Jul 2011, 10:47 am

Phosphates and silicates are not the same. The main thing you need to know is that phosphates fuel algae growth, and silicates fuel diatom blooms. If you're having an algae problem, it's a nitrate/phosphate issue. If you're having diatom blooms, you're having a silicate issue. If you have a silicate issue it's because you're not using RO/DI water, or your DI resin is all used up and allowing silicates through. Most people will never test for it because they know if they have a diatom bloom, to change their DI resin.

I test for ammonia and nitrite when checking for a cycle or if anything would really seem off.

My regular testing is temp (daily), salinity (twice a week before water changes), nitrate, phosphate, pH, Alk, & Calcium occasionally. Once a week when my tank was younger... less often now.
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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 1:19 pm

Are ph and alkalinity two different things

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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 1:33 pm

The tes kit I am getting just tests for nitrates, carbonate hardness, phosphates and calcium. Are there any separate test kits I need to purchase to get a good parameter reading to figure out why I am having this cyano and hair algae problem?

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Post by matt_longview Sun 31 Jul 2011, 2:10 pm

Nitrates and phosphates fuel algae growth. It's likely that they will test 0 though...since it's being used to grow the algae.
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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 3:55 pm

So if they will be testing zero then what do I need to do? I have been doing like 5% water changes weekly. Doing next one in a few min.

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Post by matt_longview Sun 31 Jul 2011, 4:15 pm

What filtering do you have setup in the aquarium? We already determined that you likely need some better flow (low flow will cause buildup of solids on rock surfaces and down in the holes). What skimmer are you running on the tank?

What is your typical feeding schedule? Are you using RO/DI water for your water changes or treated tap water? Are you running a sump with an overflow? Hang on back equipment? We'll figure it out!
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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 4:29 pm

I just have two water fall filters, I will get new ones if If u think I need something else. I am ordering a 750 gph hydra koralia evol. Pump just one do I need more? I am running a skimmer that I bought of aqua traders.com for 40.00. It creates a pretty good half cup full over a couple days. I feed flake food once in the evening a few small pinches. I every 3-4 days feed clam pieces/mysis shrimp to larger corals and new anemone and filter feed flame scallop and feather dusters with marine snow. I run RODI water every water change. I have no sump yet didn't know if it would be necessary or not but any recommendations or help would be wonderful.

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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 5:10 pm

I have a freshwater testing kit and I tested ph 8.2-8.3, ammonia 0-0.25, nitrite 0, nitrate 5.0 to 10 but looks closer to 5 I think.

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Post by matt_longview Sun 31 Jul 2011, 5:13 pm

I would grab a few "two little fishes" reactors (or a NextReef Shorty) and run some chemi-pure elite and purigen. I seriously believe in that stuff! I'd also try to find more about your protein skimmer.

Also, I'd move feeding to every other day and meaty foods to once per week. I've never tried marine snow, but personally I think blowing off your rockwork with a powerhead or turkey baster feeds filter feeders plenty! Lol.
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Post by DonnieP Sun 31 Jul 2011, 5:27 pm

matt_longview wrote:I would grab a few "two little fishes" reactors (or a NextReef Shorty) and run some chemi-pure elite and purigen. I seriously believe in that stuff! I'd also try to find more about your protein skimmer.

Also, I'd move feeding to every other day and meaty foods to once per week. I've never tried marine snow, but personally I think blowing off your rockwork with a powerhead or turkey baster feeds filter feeders plenty! Lol.

I agree with Matt on this especially the part about chemipure elite and cut the feeding in half at least. The food is definitely adding to your problem. I feed my fish every other day and the predator corals about once, maybe twice a week and a little bit at that. The marine snow is a big cause of nitrates when not used correctly, I would not suggest you use it. I don't feed my photosynthetic corals at all just the juice from feeding my fish frozen Myasis.
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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 5:30 pm

The cyan I was talking about earlier is really starting to show up everywhere

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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 5:32 pm

I meant cyano red algae stuff, do I try to blow it off or what should I do.

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Post by Puffdaddy Sun 31 Jul 2011, 5:34 pm

Salinity is 1.027 what does it need to be?

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