29g Biocube, Reeflo Dart, MarineLand Pro 300 Skimmer Ect

Shippable items:
Reeflo Dart 3600gph External Pump (Excellent condition) - $185 shipped OBO
Azoo Heater Controller - $15
Biocube 29 Media Rack - $20

Items for pickup only:
Biocube 29g with back wall removed, drilled, overflow installed, stand, sump, return pump and heater. (no scratches, would rate the shape of the tank and equipment an A, stand a B with minor wear, pm your cell number for pics) - $250 OBO all reasonable offers considered.
Marineland Pro 300 Skimmer (new - open box condition, used two weeks them cleaned well) - $125 OBO

The Reeflo I just purchased. However, I changed my plans on the rack system and this is simply too large.

The Azoo heater controller is cheap and made in China, but it does two simple things... keep a heater from sticking and frying your tank and sounding an alarm if the tank gets too cold/hot.

Biocube media rack came to me in trade. Doesn't fit any tank I have or am planning to get. Looks great.

Received the biocube in trade. My dad has always loved my tank and I was hoping to convince him to start his first tank with this biocube. Didn't work. I guess he wants to stop working 14 hour days first! lol.

Marineland Pro 300 Skimmer - I was hoping to use it on the rack system but it won't fit. I've actually read good things about these. They look good and have the pump contained in the bottom of the unit.

Media Rack sold

Azoo Heater Controller Sold

Dad decided he was going to give it a shot. Biocube no longer for sale.

Oh excellent news....and not only does he have a source on hand for all his questions, but he can also raid your fish cupboard!!

Yeah. I'll be bringing him corals twice a year when we go visit him. Lol I'll have to see if there are any decent places for him to get some livestock up there.

I took some pics of some items for sale.

I'm likely sending the skimmer my dads way too. That's a huge skimmer for a 29g, but it's got such a small footprint it's perfect. I'll likely set it up where it only runs for a few hours a day.

Anyways... No longer for sale either. :-)

So really the Dart pump and the t5 lighting is the only thing left. That was quick!

So.... does this mean you aren't a Texan? You're one of those foreign chaps? You know...from up north?

Not a true texan. It's out. I honestly feel kind of relaxed now...just this huge alaska sized weight off my shoulders.

...oh most people say Texas sized weight. Yeah sorry...I'm just not quite acclimated.

Good news, only the t5s left. And there's only one reason I'm selling them...

It's OK, one day you will be able to talk Texan as naturally as I do.... yawl.

The image on the right is the density of LED's, but the left pic, what are they?

The heatsinks on the left have the leds installed with wiring ran and soldered with optics on them. The heatsinks on the right just have the leds laying on top of them...just begging me to install them over the tanks!

It seems like you are doing a connection over series. Why do not you use parallel instead?

I'm still learning, but if I understand correctly if they're run in parallel, if an led goes out on one string the other string will run double mA and possibly heat up and ruin more leds. If it's run in line one goes out and takes out the whole stand and others will be unable to overheat.

Like I said though, still learning so I could be wrong.

in parallel the total resistance is much less than in series. if one go out in parallel will not affect the total resistance too much : 1/R= 1/R1+ 1/R2+ ......
Also you are right about the one out will not affect others. that is really how our house light bulb runs.
I could be wrong, also I am learning as well

I would go to Nano-Reef and PM Evil, he is an LED GAWD and will steer you in the right direction.

I went by the rapid led diy diagrams. I'm running 12 in line with the constant current driver and 24 total on the dimmable, but I'm splitting that run into two strands of twelve which will split the 1500ma into two 750ma runs.

Both are options on their diagrams.